Wednesday, 18 November 2009

旅行大事小記 : 由嗅覺帶來的回憶

今晚想用八⻆弄一餐中式牛腩,先別提我買錯了肉的部份,'飛水'的時候一陣濃列的酥味一湧而上,頓時竟令我想起多年前在印尼蘇拉威西島 (Sulawesi) 小鎮 Rantepao 遇上的一個 Toraja 葬禮儀式...

當時因為遲到而錯過了他們一刀牛落地的本領,現場只剩下幾件躺在血地上的牛頭牛腳和一堆堆大大小小的紅肉,幾名壯男仍在地上切肉塊,刀起刀落,聲聲作響,炎熱的空氣在烈陽下滲滿了血的腥酥,加上那天我身體不適,一接近便想吐了,只敢在外圍隨便找個地方坐下來遠觀,竹棚下的賓客有說有笑有吃有喝,一些小孩子用繩子牽著拳頭大的牛腳指來玩,不遠處傳來豬隻的尖叫聲,一隻一隻被綁著四腿挑進場來的豬隻是喪禮,我們兩個無知闖進的遊客,被熱情地招待吃小點飲棕櫚酒。

兩天的葬禮,據當地人說,只能算是一個小型的儀式,Toraja 族人相信,水牛會帶亡者步上天國,所以若能在葬禮中宰得水牛越多越好,亡者會越快到天國,事後留下的水牛⻆會被排掛在大屋前面,可見水牛⻆的數量,幾乎也算是屋主的財富象徵了。為了好好地籌備葬禮,往往需時幾個星期甚至幾年,等候期間,遺體會被包上好幾層布暫放在家中,直至葬禮當日,才放在棺木裡由親朋子孫抬到山上,要提一下,Toraja 的墓地不埋在地底下面,而是懸在或藏在岩石的峭壁上的。

當一切準備好了,抬着棺木的幾個年輕人笑著叫著起步,踏過河流之後,一片青田,幾戶傳統的米舍,有如一幅圖畫,我跟著大隊半行半走着,一公里吧,到了小山丘邊,各人才慢慢停下腳步,有繼續嘻嘻哈哈的,有開始把棺木推到山邊的,直到棺木被安頓在離地三米預先掘好的小洞裡,有笑聲也有肅目,却沒有看到一滴眼淚,或許,時間挺會把悲哀沖淡。倒是我這個遊客,在棺木被推進山洞的一刻,竟感到一點難過。

4 comments:

Sam said...

Wow. Did you plan to visit places like Rantepao? What you described was a bit unusual for city people like ourselves. Or was it part of your job?

michelle said...

Sam, i like adventure ah :) well, the culture is different, but we've met nice people in Rantepao !

believe me, it is pretty inspiring to see different things. Honestly why do we bother traveling to the other end of the world if we eat the same thing, wear the same clothes, experience the same culture ? I believe that it is important to travel for we know that we are only a mini part of the world, that there are so much more to care then buying the bag of the latest model :)

微豆 Haricot said...

Bonjour Michelle, j'ai aussi laissé les commentaires suivants au 2weeks1gather.

>> ... 為了好好地籌備葬禮,往往需時幾個星期甚至幾年,等候期間,遺體會被包上好幾層布暫放在家中
Oh man, how do they handle the smell?

>> ... Toraja 的墓地不埋在地底下面,而是懸在或藏在岩石的峭壁上的
I recall seeing suspended coffins along some isolated parts of the Yangtze River too.

Anyway, your trip must have opened up your eyes and nostrils too. BTW, I heard that of all the five senses, smell brings back memories the fastest.

Thank you for sharing !!

michelle said...

Haricot: "how do they handle the smell?" i really don't know... perhaps they put certain product in the cloth for it smells less... didn't feel comfortable to ask them this kind of question at that time :S

"I recall seeing suspended coffins along some isolated parts of the Yangtze River too." is it really? there are so much to see in China... wish i could visit more in the future...

"your trip must have opened up your eyes and nostrils too" haha indeed :)

"I heard that of all the five senses, smell brings back memories the fastest." i agree... smell can easily bring me old memories... i've also written something about 嗅味 before: http://petiteinote.blogspot.com/2008/02/blog-post_27.html

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